Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Maison Valentino, has always believed that color is a powerful channel of immediate and direct communication and has always been used as a means to recalibrate perception and re-evaluate form and function. For the Valentino Le Noir Autumn/Winter 2024-25 collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli revisits Valentino through the lens of black – not an absence of color, nor a monochromatic or monotonous exercise, but the discovery of many subtle tones within one hue .
As a color, black itself has always had multiple definitions and meanings, constantly changing and perceived by all. The forms of Mark Rothko’s Negroes, Pierre Soulages’ reflective Negroes and Constantin Braâncuși’s sculptural Negroes express the breadth of the grammar that is Negro language. Black represents universality and individuality, unity and idiosyncrasy. Its physical function is different from other colors and it can absorb light. Its depths are explored, a black vocabulary is proposed. Likewise, philosophically, it absorbs the cultural definitions and influences, memories and meanings we project. Here, black can become a color not sober but energizing, a rebellion against romance, an intensely graphic take on fluorescent pink.
A color for every day, here black is amplified and used to retextualize Valentino’s signs and symbols – rosettes, ruffles, embroidery, lace. Reimagining the abstract codes of Valentino, volants and plissé as chiaroscuro, while its sartorial language is translated into dresses, vulnerability provides strength. Patterns, embroideries and fabrics give black a different life – this technique named by Valentino Altorilievo (High Relief) is performed in tulle, falling like shadows all over the body. Intense velvets and creams give the shapes a sculptural texture, while a sheer veil of chiffon hugs the skin. In a black universe, gestures drawn from the past can become new, viewed from new angles, given a different identity. Valentino’s archetypal silhouette, with its charming lines and defined shoulders, undoubtedly drawn from the 1980s, has been revisited without nostalgia and more clearly depicts today’s body. A dark counterpoint, between lightness and toughness, then and now.
Black people can challenge and break stereotypes—and, as Baudelaire suggested, have a place in their own democracy. Day and night blur together and precious silhouettes and decorations are given a new reality and relevance. As you say “Roso Valentino”, we can say “Black Valentino”.
About ValentinoValentino
Maison Valentino was founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti. Valentino is a protagonist of international fashion and from 2008 to 2016 it underwent an influential creative evolution.
The Valentino family plays an important role in the luxury sector through tradition and innovation, a necessary combination for creative industries that generate beauty.
Valentino is one of the leaders in the international fashion industry and believes in the high added value brought by its global fashion vision through its haute couture, Prêtà-Porter, Valentino Garavani accessories, eyewear and fragrance series licensed in partnership with L’Oréal.
About Akoni Group
The Akoni Group firmly believes that eyewear should be a true luxury product, not just another add-on accessory, and aims to stand out through its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, expertise and quality. The company was founded in 2019 by Group CEO Rosario Toscano and Creative Director Salma Rachid to promote their shared values, interests and passions.
Akoni Group’s production takes place in the world’s finest workshops in Japan, using only the highest quality materials and time-honored cutting-edge production techniques. Master craftsmen dedicate decades of their lives to mastering their craft and passing on their knowledge from generation to generation. Every hinge, temple and component used is well thought out and uniquely crafted. The Akoni Group designs first for the human form, applying practical concepts and innovations to comfort, beauty, fit and functionality. Each frame reflects a unique journey from concept to structure. There are no better eyeglass makers in the world.
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Post time: Apr-11-2024